Just got back from the puente (literally 'bridge', but is the nickname for a long weekend)! My Aussie friend, now based in France, had come to visit Spain so we went on a little trip together.
There are many different theories as to the origins of the Cruces de Mayo festival. The celebrations in Córdoba can be traced back to the 18th century and some historians link it to the pagan festival commemorating the arrival of spring, while others believe it to be of Roman origin as a celebration of the the cross on which Jesus was crucified. The legend has it that Saint Helena (mother of Constantine I) went on a pilgrimage in search of the True Cross; and to prove it was the one, she used it to perform miracles and urge people to worship.
The Cruces de Mayo is not just a festival, but also a competition for the best cross. This aspect began in Córdoba in 1953, although can now been seen in many cities across Andalucía. The hermandades (Catholic brotherhoods seen during Semana Santa) and other neighbourhood associations (secretly) prepare in the months leading up to the event. The contest is judged by the Ayuntamiento (town hall) and runs during the four days around the 1st of May.
Each cross has its own 'party' tent with food, drink, and music that operate throughout the day. Without deviating too far, we passed six crosses complete people, bar, and music on our way from the train station to our idyllic hostel, Al-Katre.
In addition to the Cruces de Mayo, we visited the Mezquita (tickets for €11 here https://tickets.mezquita-catedraldecordoba.es/en) which is an incredible Mosque-Cathedral located in the centre of town. The history, architecture, and size of this place astounded me! The original mosque was built in 786 and was enlarged three times by each caliph. It then became a Catholic temple in 1146 after 110 years since the dissolution of the Caliphate of Córdoba. When you walk into the dark space, you'll first notice the Islamic horseshoe-shaped arches with their red and white stripes. In the middle of the space, you'll find the huge Royal Chapel with iconic white detail.
Afterwards, we lined up to see the Alcázar de los Reyes Crisitanos (€2,50 student ticket). The castle ruins were not so exciting, but the gardens were stunning.
For dinner, we ate salmorejo (a tomatoey-garlicky-bready soup) from Bar Santos on the Mezquita wall, then had a flamenquín cordobés which is a deep fried roll of ham and pork.
To end the night, we enjoyed some live music at the Jazz Café.
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