I've been on a mini Eastern Europe trip from Albania to Poland. In this post, I'll expand on my time in the Balkan countries (minus Albania and Bulgaria which I've already documented). (Unfortunately, I didn't make it to Kosovo on this trip.)
Ohrid, NORTH MACEDONIA
During my time in Albania, I popped into North Macedonia - or just 'Macedonia' as it was originally named until Febuary 2019, due to a name dispute over Greece's region of Macedonia - for a couple to nights to visit Lake Ohrid, one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes. I stayed in the old town of Ohrid where I was enchanted by the romantic sunset over the lake in the valley.
I stayed at Lakeview Hostel, where Toni the host was super responsive and the vibes were on point.
I rented a bike from the Bike Station and went on a pretty decent ride alonside the lake. I turned off into the mountains in the direction of Taverna Utarna, a restaurant which had been recommended. I was seriously reconsidering whether the food would be worth it for the killer uphill ride, but it was. I had ajvar (a capsicum dip), tavče gravče (baked beans), stuffed peppers, maznik (a spiralled cheese pie), and a Macedonian salad. Taverna Utarna is a must for scrumptious, authentic food.
After lunch, I flew downhill with a full belly and continued onwards to the Bay of Bones museum. It was an interesting ancient settlement they raised from the water and put on stilts which you can walk through, but unfortuneately it lacks information, and I would say proabably isn't worth it.
However, the four Gradishte beaches, accessible via the campground nextdoor, were fantastic! I had an awesome swim in the crystal clear water. The only downside is that beach bars have been set up on the rocky shore so don't expect a tranquil swim, as they'll be some form of club music blasting from the speakers.
One of the beaches has an old church built into the rocks and covered in frescos.
Before I left North Macedonia, I followed the boardwalk to Kaneo Church, a pretty iconic landmark of Ohrid and well worth the stroll through the old town.
Kotor, MONTENEGRO
Montenegro is a small nation with only 600,000 people. A group of us took a private taxi for 17€ from Shkodër, Albania, to Kotor, Montenegro.
I stayed at the Old Town Hostel - a very lively place, but quite expensive (30€ a night). Make sure you join the daily activities because they have some great trips. We went to the abandoned Garzola Fort where there was a BBQ organised for us as the sun was setting.
Unfortunately, I had missed the boat party tour the day before, so a group of us went on our own 2 hour tour for 42€ which took us around the bay: depths ranging from 35-60m. We visited Our Lady of the Rocks which is one of two islets accross from the town of Ferast: the first town on the bay of Kotor and the birthplace of maritime. It's a man-made island which took 200 years to make (finished in 1600) as rocks were dropped on top of a shipwreck graveyard. On the 22nd of July, men continue to leave rocks on island to stabilise it while the women and children prepare for the party in town.
The other island (with a monastery) is natural, and despite the number of kayakers from Ferast walking around, it is disrespectful to set foot on the island, and even to swim around it, particuarly in bathers.
We also saw three tunnels that used to house four submarines during WWII.
Then we went swimming in the Blue Cave which had crystal clear water (all of the water in these countries is amazing).
The other thing to do in Kotor is to walk up to the castle ruins. There are a seriers of steps up from the Old Town, however, there is an alternate route called, 'the ladder', which is free and honestly more scenic. You can take the steps down which is a bit faster.
Mostar, BOSNIA AND HERZAGOVINA (BIH)
Translated as city of the bridges, Mostar was a super interesting town to visit. I went on the famous walking tour with Sheva where I learnt that:
cats are the only animals allowed inside mosques as they are considered clean
the Ziraat Bank has ATMs with free withdrawals.
BIH has 3 presidents which rotate every 8 months
one is Bosnian, another is Bosnian-Croat, and the other is Bosnian-Serb
the bridge is 23m tall
76% of Mostar was destroyed during Balkan Wars
it was not safe in Mostar during the day and even funerals were held at night
the wars lasted 4 months and 22 days
the government doesn’t want the population of Mostar to forget the War because then they’ll heal and overthrow the government
some families still don’t let children cross the bridge due to hate of people on the other side
My top recs are to:
see the bridge and watch someone jump
stay at Majdaz or Tasos hostels
do Sheva's walking tour
eat stuffed peppers at Food House
climb the Sniper Tower
Sarajevo, BIH
While Herzagovina is land of the rocks, Sarajevo in Bosnia: land of the trees.
I took the cable car up the mountain, then climbed to the summit which was above the clouds! There's a very interesting walk down via the Olympic Bob Sled Track, however, I somehow got lost and ended up doing 20km of walking!
Make sure you get something traditional to eat in the old town.
Notes:
- Rakia is a big deal in these countries, and they all have their own version of the clear spirit. You're supposed to sip it, but it's quite strong.
- Many of the older generation are nostalgic about the 70s/80s communistic period and still prefer Yugoslavia for the higher living standards, however, it is important to acknowledge the horrendous war crimes that violated many human rights. In saying that, the modern govermnents at present are also quite corrupt.
- Always bring small change with you (€1/2) accepted for ticket validation and then for luggage.
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