I caught up with some friends in the northern province of Guanacaste to swim at the beaches and hike around a volcano!
Public transport in Costa Rica is very difficult to organise. If you can afford it, having a car or paying for a shuttle is definitely worth it. Many locals don't know the bus schedules and most bus terminals don't have websites, however, if you can find a contact number, the companies are surprisingly good at responding to WhatsApp messages. I've received voice memos will all the details within minutes of messaging!
This website is also a good starting point: https://www.thebusschedule.com/cr/index.php.
We caught a long bus from San José to the windy city of Liberia where we stayed at the super friendly Hospedaje Zardy. Liberia was once known as Ciudad Blanca ('white city') as the streets used to be made from white gravel. Calle Real - a street lined with original Spanish colonial houses (with patios) - is also worth a visit.
We walked through Rincón de la Vieja National Park which is home to one of Costa Rica's largest, active volcanoes. Entrance to the park is $16.95. Again, we found limited information online about the walking trails, but My Tan Feet blog is absolutely excellent for all things Costa Rica.
There are two main trails: the 3.5km loop to Las Pailas (mud pots), and one around 10km to La Cangreja waterfall. If you plan on seeing the waterfall (which is definitely worth it), you have to begin the walk before 12pm as the park closes at 3pm. The trail to the summit currently closed due to volcanic activity...
Las Pailas trail is very easy and you get to see boiling mud pots, fumaroles, little volcanoes, and a waterfall. The mud pools are extremely hot and temperatures vary between 43-96°C!
La Cangreja trail can be difficult due to the steep sections. However, you get to swim in the waterfall and there is even a thermal hot spring flowing into the water.
We did both walks and were amazed by the braided trees, geographical diversity, and monkeys!
The next day, we went to Playa Buena and Playa Hermosa. You can walk between the two and the sunset from Playa Hermosa is stunning.
The next day, we went to Playa Conchal ('shelly beach') from Brasilito. Unfortunately, it lacks shade, but it was very entertaining watching adults brace themselves for enormous waves which would knock them all over.
From there, my friends went back to San José and I took a colectivo to Huecas for 1,000 colónes then another to Tamarindo for 2,000₡. Colectivos are essentially cheap taxis. They cars themselves are very old and just follow the main road. They almost always cost 1,000 colónes and will pick up/drop off other people on the way. I'm not sure where exactly they operate as this was the first time I'd seen them in Costa Rica, but they're perfect for cheap, short trips.
In Tamarindo, I stayed at Pura Vida Hostel (not to be confused with Pura Vida MINI Hostel). It was very cheap at $12/night and had great communal areas.
Overall, Tamarindo was very touristy and expensive, but the beaches were incredible. The main beach is always busy, but ideal for the sunset as there are plenty of bars. One day, I walked out past Playa Langosta, all the way to the end of the second beach were there were hardly any people and had the place all to myself. I did the same on the following day but in the other direction which required the mini ferry (to avoid crocodiles) to Playa Grande. The ferry costs 1,000₡ and the last one is at around 5.30pm.
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